Jerking around: sampling Jamaica's favourite cuisine

Jamaica is as famous for jerked meats as Ireland is for Guinness or Cornwall for pasties. Philippa Jacks investigates the phenomenon

I first tried jerk chicken at Notting Hill Carnival, where a polystyrene tray of gristly meat costing six quid was a poor introduction to this national treasure. Fortunately they make it a lot better in the country itself, and really do eat it all the time.

The word “jerk” is said to derive from the Quechuan (Native Central American) word “cherquai” meaning dried meat. Slaves brought to Jamaica in the 1600s escaped into the island’s hills where they hunted wild boar to survive. They used strong herbs and spices to help preserve it, and smoked it slowly before drying it in the sun.