Jerk"N"Things is a new restaurant, but the name by itself doesn't tell us a whole lot. So to clarify matters the oval green sign in front of the restaurant adds these words to the name: "Authentic Jamaican Cuisine," so now we know. Also, offers a clue as to what's going on here. For the record, jerk food has to do with a dry rub of spices, marinades and, to a large degree, heat, and Ja' Grill is heating it up with a passion that borders on the erotic.

"Do you like it mild or hot?" the waiter asked. "What kind of heat are we talking about here?" I asked.

"Well, the mild is hot, and the hot is really hot, as in ￃﾫScotch bonnet hot.' "

"Will the hot make my eyeballs sweat?" I asked. He smiled and said, "Let me have you try the sauces on the side, then you tell me."

Whoa! The hot is sizzling, fiery, intense, intoxicating, terrific. Scotch bonnet (same species as the habanero) is one of the hottest peppers out there. Found mainly in the Caribbean, the Scotch bonnet pepper is truly what gives jerk food its unique flavor. And Jerk"N"Things food does this chile proud.

The menu is tight. The place is small. But there is a good deal of character and creativity in both. The highest-priced dish on the menu is the whole snapper, which runs $20 but includes (as do all entrees) rice and peas ("peas" in Jamaican cuisine are actually kidney beans), steamed cabbage and carrots, plantains and bread. (Jerk"N"Things offers preparations - chicken, shrimp - that involve curry, but I didn't try any of them.)