The Counter.

As American as the seeping apple pie Dottie slaps down in front of you on a thick white plate rimmed in blue. As comfortable as the thigh-high stool with the pitted silver pedestal and soft, green spinning seat.

Here, on this Formica runway lit with cigarettes, evolved the bottomless cup of coffee. Over it, conversation volleys from person to person. Along it, friendships are made, world problems solved by a summit called by the number of available seats.

The counter: it began as a handyman's invention of the 1880. A simple, yet ingenious thought. To the lone diner then, it was what fast food is today. Swift service. An inconspicuous meal making one look like family to ...